Frequently asked questions.

Delivery time varies by product and processing; you see the indication on the product page and in your cart. Check the current delivery times and shipping costs on the delivery times page.

Glass is delivered insured by specialised transport. Shipping costs depend on your order and are calculated at checkout — once per order.

Both. Business customers check out excluding VAT and receive an invoice; private customers see prices including VAT.

You simply add such products to your cart. At checkout you request a single quote for everything together — with shipping charged once — and then we send you a single payment link. That way you never pay for transport twice.

On non-custom items you have a 14-day cooling-off period. Custom glass is made especially for you and is legally excluded from the right of withdrawal. See the right-of-withdrawal page for the details.

Report transport damage as soon as possible with your order number and clear photos. We'll sort it out properly for you — see warranty & transport damage.

The correct glass thickness depends on the size of the window and the application: the larger the surface, the thicker the glass must be to absorb wind pressure and tension. For small stable windows or photo frames, 4 mm is often sufficient, while larger interior walls or facades quickly require 6, 8 mm or thicker. We help you with your choice in the configurator; If in doubt, our specialists are happy to take a look.

Standard single glazing (float glass) is one pane of glass; If this breaks, it shatters into large, sharp shards. Laminated glass consists of two (or more) panes of glass with a tough, transparent PVB film in between. If broken, the fragments remain stuck to the foil, so that no hole is created and the risk of serious cutting injuries is eliminated. Laminated glass falls under safety glass.

According to Dutch building regulations (NEN 3569), glass must be injury-reducing in places where people can easily fall into it. This basically applies to all glass that starts lower than 85 cm from the floor, such as French doors, side lights next to a door or glass balustrades. So always choose tempered or laminated safety glass in the configurator. Are you unsure whether your project meets the standards? Contact us — our specialists will give you honest and safe advice.

No, single glazing hardly insulates and is not suitable as an exterior window for heated rooms: it allows heat to pass through directly and produces a lot of condensation on the inside. For an exterior facade, always choose insulating glass, such as our high-quality vacuum glass. Single glass outside is perfect for unheated spaces such as a shed, garden house, canopy or monumental building (where specific monumental glass is sometimes required).

Is the glass in a frame or profile, where the edges disappear from view? Then choose 'sharp edges' (flat unfinished) — the glass is delivered tightly cut. Do the edges remain visible and can you touch them, such as with a shelf, windshield or interior door? Then choose 'flat poly cut': the edges are finished smooth and glossy, safe and sleek. Want to know more about the differences? Read our knowledge base article on glass finishes.

Tempered glass (ESG) is heated and quickly cooled, making it up to 5x stronger and shattering into small, blunt pieces when broken. Laminated glass (VSG) consists of two panes with a tough foil between them; If broken, the shards remain attached to the foil - safe and burglar-resistant.

According to NEN 3569, safety glass is required for glass in and next to doors, for parapets lower than 85 cm and for large windows at a walkable height. NEN 2608 applies to roof glazing. Are you in doubt? The configurator does a free safety check.

Drilling, recesses and edge finishing must be done before hardening - tempered glass cannot be processed afterwards. So enter your edits in the configurator; we process them in the correct order.

For walk-on glass, use laminated or toughened laminated glass in a heavier construction. View 'Walkable glass' or ask for advice — the correct structure depends on span and load.

Lacobel is glass with a colored lacquer layer on the back - a sleek, glossy colored panel. Matelac is the satin (matte) variant. Both are popular as a kitchen backsplash, furniture or wall panel.

Enameled and tempered lacquered glass are available in almost any RAL, NCS or Pantone color. Lacobel and Matelac have a fixed color map. Please ask for advice about availability for a specific color.

Yes. Tempered lacquered and enamelled glass are heat-resistant and easy to clean — ideal behind a hob. Lacquered glass is only for indoor use.

Yes, you set the sizes, drillings (e.g. for sockets) and the edge finish in the configurator and immediately see the price.

Yes, we supply custom-made glass interior doors in tempered (safety) glass with recesses for hinges and locks. The online configurator follows; request a quote now.

A glass door is always made of tempered safety glass (ESG), usually 8 or 10 mm, possibly matt, sandblasted or colored. Laminated glass can be used for extra safety.

Yes. We supply suitable door fittings – hinges, locks and handles. Please indicate in your request which type of door and fittings you want and we will put it together completely.

The difference is in the structure and the insulation value. HR++ glass consists of two panes of glass with an insulating noble gas (argon) in the cavity and a wafer-thin heat-reflecting coating — which insulates much better than old double glazing. Triple glazing (HR+++) continues with three glass panes and two cavities: it insulates extremely well and is the standard for energy-neutral homes, but is thicker and heavier than HR++.

HR++ glass fits most modern wooden, plastic or aluminum frames, because the total thickness is often comparable to older double glazing. Triple glass is a lot thicker and heavier due to the three layers of glass; Sometimes window frames need to be adjusted (for example with deeper glazing beads) or the fittings are not designed for the extra weight. Do you want to know what to pay attention to when measuring your frame thickness? Read in our knowledge base how to check which insulating glass fits.

The U-value indicates how much heat is lost per square meter through the glass: the lower, the better the insulation. Old single glazing is around 5.8; modern HR++ around 1.1; triple glass falls well below that at 0.6 to 0.5. A lower U-value retains heat better and immediately saves on your energy bill. Curious about the value of your structure? Calculate it with our U-value calculator.

The total thickness is the sum of the glass sheets and the cavity. In the configurator you see this, for example, as 4-15-4 or 4-15-5: an outer leaf of 4 mm, a cavity of 15 mm and an inner leaf of 4 or 5 mm — so 23 or 24 mm in total. Which glass and cavity thickness you choose mainly depends on the space in your frame. Because the cavity has a major influence on the insulation, the configurator calculates the U-value live while you assemble. Are you unsure about the structure? Contact us and we will take a look.

As a private individual, you can often take advantage of the national ISDE subsidy when you insulate your home with HR++ or triple glazing. Conditions apply: the glass must be placed in the existing thermal shell, the U-value must meet the minimum requirements and installation must often be carried out by a recognized company. Are you requesting installation through our installation partner? They will then help you with the correct documentation for the subsidy application.

Vacuum glass is the latest generation of insulating glass. Instead of a cavity with gas (as in HR++), there is a completely vacuum space between the two wafer-thin glass plates: a vacuum. Because there is no air or gas to conduct heat, the insulation value is extremely high. The result is a pane as thin as single glass that insulates better than the thickest triple walls.

Up close you can see a tight pattern of tiny dots: the micro-spacers or spacers. Because the space between the glass plates is vacuum, an enormous atmospheric pressure is created that pulls the plates together. These dots ensure that the plates do not touch each other and the window does not implode. From a short distance they are hardly noticeable. Curious what that looks like? View our knowledge base article on BENG glass with examples and photos.

The biggest advantage is the thickness and weight. Triple glazing is easily 40 to 50 mm thick and very heavy, so it often does not fit into existing window frames. Our vacuum glass is on average only 8 to 12 mm thick and therefore almost always fits directly into your current wooden, plastic or aluminum frames — and even in monumental buildings. You save on your energy bill without replacing all your window frames.

Yes, excellent. Precisely because vacuum glass is so thin, it is the solution for monumental buildings. Often the appearance should not change and the slim frames are not suitable for thick, heavy HR++ or triple glazing. With vacuum glass you retain the authentic, sleek appearance and enjoy modern comfort and insulation. Because renovation of monuments is tailor-made and complies with strict rules, we are happy to help you from the start - please feel free to contact us.

Because vacuum glass is vacuumed under high pressure and the micro-spacers must be positioned exactly, production requirements apply to the dimensions. The maximum plate size for our BENG glass is 2350 × 4150 mm. In the configurator you can immediately see whether your measurements fall within the margins. Please note: vacuum glass cannot be sawn or processed after production, so accurate measuring is crucial. View our measuring instructions in the knowledge base.

Installation glass is high-quality tempered safety glass that is prepared for mounting with glass fittings. Because tempered glass can no longer be drilled or sawn after production, we make all holes and recesses — for hinges, locks, shower clamps or handles — exactly to size in advance in the factory. The glass is perfect for interior doors, shower walls, glass rear walls and office partition walls.

Because installation glass is often given a prominent place, we offer various stylish finishes: sleek clear glass, extra clear glass (diamond glass), frosted glass (satinato) for privacy, and bronze or gray tinted glass. For your convenience, we have prepared popular combinations — pre-assembled sets of popular glass doors and shower enclosures that will get you done in just a few clicks. Do you want something unique? Then you adjust the configuration yourself.

You don't need technical drawings for that. In our 3D configurator you select your type of shower door or screen and, while entering the dimensions, you can see live in 3D what the glass and the recesses for the hinges will look like. Do you have a unique situation or specific indentation? Then you upload your own sketch when ordering. Our specialists manually check each design before production and contact us if something doesn't seem logical.

This glass undergoes a thermal hardening process: it is extremely heated and then quickly cooled. This creates a constant tension, making it up to five times stronger than standard single glazing. It is extremely resistant to impacts, opening doors and large temperature differences (useful in the bathroom). If it breaks due to an extreme blow, it shatters into thousands of small, blurry grains instead of dangerous shards.

We recommend that. Because the cutouts must match your fittings exactly, it is easiest to order this directly: we will then ensure that the holes match 100% with the hinges or glass clamps you chose, so that installation goes smoothly. Would you rather design your own fittings? That is also possible - you add the desired cutouts and holes to the millimeter in the configurator, so that the glass fits exactly to your material.

If you are looking for a complete niche door, corner unit or walk-in shower, use our 3D configurator. You choose your setup and enter the measurements; the configurator immediately calculates the correct glass sizes and automatically selects the hinges, glass clamps and stabilizing bars that connect with each other. Are you a professional, are you replacing one part (such as a worn magnetic profile) or are you designing a unique shower or sauna wall yourself? Then you order each hinge (for example the Flamea or Storm series), profile or towel bar separately from our separate range.

That depends on how the door opens and the installation. The Flamea and Flamea+ series are popular in bathrooms thanks to their sleek design and adjustable zero point (the door remains perfectly closed). Many shower hinges have a pendulum function: they rotate 90° inwards and 90° outwards. When making your choice, always pay attention to the maximum weight and the glass thickness, so that the door does not sag.

Without the right profiles, a glass shower door will never be 100% watertight. Use our sealing profiles for this: magnetic profiles that close the door tightly, side profiles with a leak strip and water barrier profiles for the floor. You can easily slide this over the edge of the glass. Do you have a walk-in shower with a fixed wall? Then seal the U-profile or the glass clamps on the wall and floor side tightly with sanitary sealant.

A stabilizing bar prevents a free-standing or large glass wall from wobbling or vibrating if you accidentally bump into it. Basically, we always recommend a stabilizing bar with a fixed glass wall wider than 60 cm or made of 8 mm glass. In our Stabilization category you will find round and square complete rods and individual parts, so that the rod matches your glass clamps and hinges in style.

Yes, in addition to shower walls, you will find high-quality bathroom mirrors with associated mountings. You can easily put together your own custom mirror via the configurator — enter your measurements and choose the shape (round, oval, square or rectangular). Because a bathroom is damp, proper installation is important to protect the silver layer on the back: therefore choose special acid-free mirror mounting sets or mirror sealant that does not affect the back wall.

That depends on how the door opens and how much space you have. A swing door swings open on both sides (inwards and outwards) and often closes automatically thanks to a floor spring or hydraulic hinge — ideal for walkways. A stop door falls into a frame and swings in one direction; with a drop sill it insulates better against noise and drafts. A sliding door slides tightly along or into the wall via a rail system and is the space saver if you have no room for a revolving door.

For interior glazing, the hardware must be precisely matched to the glass thickness (usually 8, 10 or 12 mm tempered glass). All our individual parts — U-profiles, clamps and hinges — clearly state which glass thickness they are suitable for. For a complete set or sliding door system, you will find in the product description which glass processing (such as holes or notches) is required. Would you like us to check it out? Please contact us via the contact page and we will take a look.

Both. If you want to be ready quickly, choose our complete sets and profile sets (for example for sliding doors or complete door frames) — the most important hardware is already included. Would you prefer a completely custom-made facade or door with a specific handle, lock or brush profile to prevent draughts? Then you select each part separately in the subcategories and personalize your project in detail.

A drop sill is a mechanism at the bottom of the door or frame: as soon as the door closes, a rubber strip automatically lowers to the floor, completely closing the gap. This stops drafts, noise and odors. The easiest option is to include the drop sill directly in the design of your door frame system, because it is incorporated into the profile. Retrofitting is possible with some systems, but often requires necessary adjustments.

Yes. Most loose aluminum U-profiles, click profiles and sliding door rails are supplied in standard lengths and you can cut them to size yourself with a fine metal saw or cross-cut saw with the correct blade. Only place any cover caps or end stops after you have cut the profile to size. Questions about installing a specific Ri-Evolution or Muto system? Feel free to ask our team.

For sliding glass doors in a piece of furniture or a display case, choose sliding window fittings. Basically you need a top profile (in which the diamonds are guided) and a bottom profile (over which they roll or slide). We have complete running rail systems in 2000 mm and 5000 mm that you can cut to size yourself. For larger or heavier panes, we recommend systems with bearings or rollers so that the glass slides smoothly and silently.

Pay attention to two things: the glass thickness and the maximum carrying weight. In our range you will find carriers that you screw into the wall or side wall of a wooden cabinet. Many carriers have a plastic or rubber tip or clamp screw, so that the glass is firmly clamped, cannot shift and there is no metal-on-glass contact to cause damage.

That depends on the batter. We have many clamp hinges and slide-on locks that do not require drilling: you slide or clamp them over the edge of the glass and tighten hand-tight with plastic clamp bolts — ideal for existing glass without holes. If you opt for heavier fittings or screw-in hinges, a drilling is necessary; you take this with you immediately when ordering the glass.

A standard display lock is permanently mounted in a profile or requires a recess or hole in the glass — a permanent, sleek solution for a fixed display cabinet. You slide a slide-on lock (also called a sawtooth or window lock) onto the edge of one sliding window without drilling; the metal bar blocks the other window and the cupboard is locked. You can also easily remove this lock when the display case needs to be opened.

Swivel shoes are located at the top and bottom of a glass display case or cabinet door and act as an invisible hinge point. You clamp the rotating shoe around the corner of the glass plate, and the pin falls into a socket that you drill into the bottom and ceiling of the cabinet. The glass door rotates around its own axis, without noticeable hinges on the side of your furniture.

That depends on your construction and the available space. With floor mounting (top mounting), you screw the aluminum floor profile on top of the finished floor or construction beam — the most chosen and stable option if you have enough floor space. With side mounting (end mounting), you attach the profile to the side of the floor edge or void, so that you do not lose any valuable centimeters and the glass runs optically smoothly along the edge.

Skyforce is a certified, virtually invisible mounting system especially for French balconies. Instead of a large fence, mount two slim aluminum profiles on the left and right of the frame or facade and clamp a strong glass plate between them. The result is a super-safe drop-through screen that does not block the view or light from entering.

That depends on the look and the load-bearing construction. Glass clamps are clamped around the edge of the glass and often mounted on existing metal or wooden posts (there are variants for indoors and outdoors); Drilling into the glass is usually not necessary, which makes installation easier. Point holders (glass knobs) go straight through the glass via pre-drilled holes and can be mounted flush against a concrete edge or steel sidewall - this gives an extremely sleek, minimalist look where the window appears to float.

Legally, a glass balustrade does not always have to have a handrail, as long as the glass itself is strong enough to absorb the forces (depending on the thickness and type of laminated/tempered glass). However, we often recommend a handrail or handrail: it protects the top edge against impacts, connects several glass panes together for extra strength and keeps greasy fingers off the glass.

The right skills and professional installation tools can go a long way, but keep in mind that balustrade glass (laminated tempered glass) is thick and heavy. You always need strong glass vacuum cleaners and a few extra hands for installation. The most important thing is the anchoring of the profiles or clamps in the substrate: always use the prescribed structural screws or chemical anchors. Safety comes first here.

That depends on your frame and the desired drainage. Standard glazing beads are used on the inside of the frame and on the top and sides outside. You place nose slats at the bottom of an exterior frame: the 'nose' falls over the sill and prevents water ingress and wood rot. Ventilation slats have notches at the back for a constant air flow in the rebate against moisture accumulation. Venti-stone is the maintenance-free plastic slat for the underside of wooden or plastic window frames.

For outdoor insulating glass, always use a high-quality glazing sealant (MS polymer or hybrid): it does not affect the edge seal of double or triple glazing, is UV and weather resistant and can be painted over directly. Silicone sealant is perfect for the bathroom (sanitary sealant) or mirrors (acid-free mirror sealant) — good against moisture, but not paintable. Acrylic sealant is used purely indoors for cracks along paintwork and is not suitable for glass mounting.

They are the two most important tools for safe installation. Apply glazing tape (PE or cell rubber tape) to the rebate and the glazing bead, so that the glass does not come into direct contact with hard wood or aluminum anywhere and you get a constant joint width for tight sealing. Place glazing blocks at the bottom of the rebate: they bear the full weight of the window, so that the glass floats and condensation water can drain to the drainage holes.

A mirror has a vulnerable silver layer on the back; standard construction adhesive or acidic sealant attacks it and causes black spots. In our Mirror Supplies category you will find special acid-free mirror glue and strong mirror tape that are made for this purpose. If you want to attach the mirror tightly and allow it to be dismantled, choose magnetic or mechanical mirror mounting sets. For extra luxury, you can place a mirror heater behind it so that the mirror no longer fogs up.

Yes, we have everything you need to get started safely. In the Tools & Climbing Materials category you will find certified stairs, ladders and scaffolding, plus hand tools such as professional window lifters, battery-powered caulking guns and heavy glass vacuums to safely lift thick windows. You have also come to the right place for specialist work - glass cutters, glass drills and grinding or polishing wheels.

The difference is in how much sound from outside is let through. Standard ventilation grilles provide a constant, healthy supply of fresh air, but allow ambient noise to pass through almost immediately — great for quiet residential areas. Sound-absorbing grilles have sound-absorbing material (acoustic foam) on the inside: they ventilate just as well, but effectively keep out the noise of a busy road, railway or airport.

A fire-resistant ventilation grille has a mechanism that immediately swells and closes in extreme heat, so that the supply of oxygen and toxic flue gases stops — often mandatory for specific fire separations. A grille with screen (sun protection) has a built-in sun protection cloth on the outside: ideal for windows facing the sun, so that you have optimal ventilation and at the same time keep out the bright sun and heat.

If you place the grille on top of the glass, the window itself will become slightly shorter (glass deduction). The exact glass deduction is stated for each type of grille (for example 80 mm or 60 mm); You subtract that number from the total rebate height of your frame to get the correct glass size. Can't figure it out with math? Please contact us via the contact page and we will calculate the sizes together.

The gutter width is the groove at the bottom of the grille into which the glass falls, and depends entirely on the total thickness of your glass structure. For example, do you have double glazing (HR++) of 24 mm? Then choose a grate with a gutter width of 24 mm. Our grilles are supplied complete as a system, including end walls and controls. When ordering, make sure that the gutter width matches the glass thickness exactly, so that everything fits airtight and firmly.

No, unfortunately that is not possible. The grille rests directly on the top edge of the glass, so the window must be specially measured and produced for it (the glass is shorter). If you still want a grille, replace the entire pane with a new one with the correct, shorter glass size. You can easily combine and order this together via our insulating glass category.