Cabinet & furniture fittings.

For sliding glass doors in a piece of furniture or a display case, choose sliding window fittings. Basically you need a top profile (in which the diamonds are guided) and a bottom profile (over which they roll or slide). We have complete running rail systems in 2000 mm and 5000 mm that you can cut to size yourself. For larger or heavier panes, we recommend systems with bearings or rollers so that the glass slides smoothly and silently.

Pay attention to two things: the glass thickness and the maximum carrying weight. In our range you will find carriers that you screw into the wall or side wall of a wooden cabinet. Many carriers have a plastic or rubber tip or clamp screw, so that the glass is firmly clamped, cannot shift and there is no metal-on-glass contact to cause damage.

That depends on the batter. We have many clamp hinges and slide-on locks that do not require drilling: you slide or clamp them over the edge of the glass and tighten hand-tight with plastic clamp bolts — ideal for existing glass without holes. If you opt for heavier fittings or screw-in hinges, a drilling is necessary; you take this with you immediately when ordering the glass.

A standard display lock is permanently mounted in a profile or requires a recess or hole in the glass — a permanent, sleek solution for a fixed display cabinet. You slide a slide-on lock (also called a sawtooth or window lock) onto the edge of one sliding window without drilling; the metal bar blocks the other window and the cupboard is locked. You can also easily remove this lock when the display case needs to be opened.

Swivel shoes are located at the top and bottom of a glass display case or cabinet door and act as an invisible hinge point. You clamp the rotating shoe around the corner of the glass plate, and the pin falls into a socket that you drill into the bottom and ceiling of the cabinet. The glass door rotates around its own axis, without noticeable hinges on the side of your furniture.